Makassar, The Land of The Seafarers
Makassar a.k.a Ujong PandangDestination: Makassar, Sulawesi, Indonesia. Date: 26/12/08- 29/12/08
Pre-trip
The trip to Makassar was Aida’s idea. Initially, during one of our meetups, Aida had suggested we both go for a holiday together sometime in November or December. I didn’t think she was serious at first since we have never traveled together, but she was. We thought of a few destinations: Krabi, Hanoi,Kota Kinabalu and Kundasang. One night, Aida called me and told about her friends’ plan to go scuba diving in Makassar, Sulawesi. She suggested that we go together with her friends; they can do their stuff and we can do our stuff, which will not include scuba diving, of course. I instantly agreed, thinking that where there is scuba diving, there’d surely be white sandy beaches I can leave my footprints on. I’m a sucker for beaches, anyway. Aida quickly assigned me to do the flight and hotel bookings. But due to clashes in schedule, we were not able to follow Aida’s friends’ actual departure date. It was then that we decided that the trip to Makassar would be a trip for two. That is, until Mazlin announced her plan to join us. Then, it became a trip for three. I had heard of Makassar, of course, years ago, maybe during History and Geography lessons, but that was that. I’d never, ever thought that I’d step foot on Makassar.
Day 1
We departed in the evening and reached Makassar around 8 something. It was raining cats and dogs when we arrived. Sultan Hasanudin Airport was impressive; but I didn’t really get a chance to appreciate the architecture since we were busy booking for the airport taxi counter. Once we paid for the taxi, we were ushered by a few kids who’d apparently been waiting for people to board taxis. They were so quick in grabbing our bags, pushing them to the assigned taxi, whilst providing us with umbrellas. I then remember my mom’s horror stories in Bandung and it dawned on me then these kids would have to be paid. True enough, when we got into the taxi, they waited eagerly for us to hand them some money.
In about half an hour, we reached our hotel, the Horison Makassar. It is a small, 4-star hotel located in the city. We were happy to see the room, it’s cozy enough for three. Earlier on, when the taxi was nearing the hotel, we had noticed a decent restaurant next to Horison. After checking into our room, we quickly headed to the restaurant and though clueless about what to eat, we gambled by ordering Ikan Baronang, Sup Chap Chai and Otak2 Ikan. They turned out marvelous and we thanked God for making our first meal in Makassar a wonderful one!
Day 2
We had a scrumptious breakfast at the hotel. The buffet spread was generous and appetizing, and there were generous servings of local Makassar dishes such as soto, ketupat and som-som. These dishes are not alien in Malaysia, of course, but those served in the hotel were really out of this world! The som-som, especially, was so good that we prayed it was going to be served again the next day!
After breakfast, we took a cab to Fort Rotterdam, an old Dutch fortress. The weather was nice, it was windy and looking at the main road in front of our hotel, we were pleased because the road was not busy. Fort Rotterdam is quite a huge area, with different buildings serving as best-preserved examples of Dutch architecture. There are two museums in the fortress. After visiting the museums, I learned that Makassar is actually the land of the seafarers. Also the land of the Bugis. Sea exploration and fishing have been predominant in Makassar for centuries.
The trip to Makassar was Aida’s idea. Initially, during one of our meetups, Aida had suggested we both go for a holiday together sometime in November or December. I didn’t think she was serious at first since we have never traveled together, but she was. We thought of a few destinations: Krabi, Hanoi,Kota Kinabalu and Kundasang. One night, Aida called me and told about her friends’ plan to go scuba diving in Makassar, Sulawesi. She suggested that we go together with her friends; they can do their stuff and we can do our stuff, which will not include scuba diving, of course. I instantly agreed, thinking that where there is scuba diving, there’d surely be white sandy beaches I can leave my footprints on. I’m a sucker for beaches, anyway. Aida quickly assigned me to do the flight and hotel bookings. But due to clashes in schedule, we were not able to follow Aida’s friends’ actual departure date. It was then that we decided that the trip to Makassar would be a trip for two. That is, until Mazlin announced her plan to join us. Then, it became a trip for three. I had heard of Makassar, of course, years ago, maybe during History and Geography lessons, but that was that. I’d never, ever thought that I’d step foot on Makassar.
Day 1
We departed in the evening and reached Makassar around 8 something. It was raining cats and dogs when we arrived. Sultan Hasanudin Airport was impressive; but I didn’t really get a chance to appreciate the architecture since we were busy booking for the airport taxi counter. Once we paid for the taxi, we were ushered by a few kids who’d apparently been waiting for people to board taxis. They were so quick in grabbing our bags, pushing them to the assigned taxi, whilst providing us with umbrellas. I then remember my mom’s horror stories in Bandung and it dawned on me then these kids would have to be paid. True enough, when we got into the taxi, they waited eagerly for us to hand them some money.
In about half an hour, we reached our hotel, the Horison Makassar. It is a small, 4-star hotel located in the city. We were happy to see the room, it’s cozy enough for three. Earlier on, when the taxi was nearing the hotel, we had noticed a decent restaurant next to Horison. After checking into our room, we quickly headed to the restaurant and though clueless about what to eat, we gambled by ordering Ikan Baronang, Sup Chap Chai and Otak2 Ikan. They turned out marvelous and we thanked God for making our first meal in Makassar a wonderful one!
Day 2
We had a scrumptious breakfast at the hotel. The buffet spread was generous and appetizing, and there were generous servings of local Makassar dishes such as soto, ketupat and som-som. These dishes are not alien in Malaysia, of course, but those served in the hotel were really out of this world! The som-som, especially, was so good that we prayed it was going to be served again the next day!
After breakfast, we took a cab to Fort Rotterdam, an old Dutch fortress. The weather was nice, it was windy and looking at the main road in front of our hotel, we were pleased because the road was not busy. Fort Rotterdam is quite a huge area, with different buildings serving as best-preserved examples of Dutch architecture. There are two museums in the fortress. After visiting the museums, I learned that Makassar is actually the land of the seafarers. Also the land of the Bugis. Sea exploration and fishing have been predominant in Makassar for centuries.
Fort Rotterdam (Interior)Outside the fort, we saw a stall selling coconuts so we stopped to quench our thirst. Stalls like this are plenty in Makassar. We got to know Den Mumbak, who offered us a boat ride (not free, of course) to Samalona, the island where we people go to for snorkeling. We told him we’d let him know, I didn’t want to make a hasty agreement with him, considering we didn’t have that much info at that point about how to go to Samalona and how much it would actually cost. . We asked Den Mumbak where we could find kain sarong, since Aida wanted to buy some for her father. We took a taxi, together with Den Mumbak as our guide, to this place in town (I forgot the name) where sarongs and fabrics and clothes are sold. I didn’t buy anything. If my dad were still around, I’d surely buy some for him.
We then headed off to Port Poetare, the anchorage of Makassar. I had so wanted to go to this place after reading about it on the Net. It is where the famous Bugis “Pinisi” (schooners) berth and of which, Pinisi models haven’t changed for centuries. But I guess our knowledge of pinisi and what-not was insufficient, so naturally we weren’t impressed. Those pinisis looked like any other small ships/boats. We took pics, nevertheless.
Port Poetare
Den Mumbak then took us to Coto Nusantara, the best place for soto makassar. The night before, the taxi driver had already told us to try out soto makassar, which Makassarese would normally take for breakfast, together with ketupat. I’d also read on the Net about the highly recommended soto makassar. True enough, it was awesome! Den Mumbak ordered soto campor for us, and it’s wise not to ask what is in this soto, as I learned later. It consists of practically every part of the cow! Nevertheless, it was extremely delicious, and I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a soto that good!
I mentioned to Den Mumbak that we wanted to go to the Central Market. But Den Mumbak advised us not to go, since there had been a lot of criminal acts at that place. We sent off Den Mumbak to Fort Rotterdam. We were a bit worried, thinking Den Mumbak might ask us to pay him for his ‘services’ and it might be costly. Fortunately, we didn’t have to. On the way back to the hotel, we passed by Jalan Omba Sopu, a long stretch of shops selling gold jewelry and souvenirs. We were delighted (not so much for the gold as for the souvenirs), since it wasn’t that far from our hotel.
After resting for while at the hotel, we decided to go to Panakkukang, the biggest mall in East Indonesia, according to the girl at the front desk. I really didn’t know what to look for at the mall. It was big alright, probably similar to Subang Parade in size, and there were so many people! We browsed through the mall, and I ended up buying some polo t-shirts for me and my sis. I did a survey on the shoes and the so-called latest-fashion clothes but I guess they are just not my taste. I bought 3 oringinal CDs. One thing I like about shopping in Indonesia is the CDs. They are so horrendously cheap!!! I got 3 CDs, Amy Winehouse, Duffy and Katy Perry, for less than 80 RM!! I’d wanted to buy Bunga Cinta Lestari’s CD but changed my mind at the last minute. Maybe the reason I’d wanted to buy is because it cost less than 10 RM and there was this one song that I really liked!!! Lame.
Back at the hotel, we asked the front desk about the best way to go to Samalona. The manager that we spoke to looked exactly like Erra Fazira (minus the make up and the wig, of course). I guess the actress’s ancestors must have come from Indonesia (chuckle). She wasn’t so sure how but promised to get the info for us.
Day 3
Den Mumbak then took us to Coto Nusantara, the best place for soto makassar. The night before, the taxi driver had already told us to try out soto makassar, which Makassarese would normally take for breakfast, together with ketupat. I’d also read on the Net about the highly recommended soto makassar. True enough, it was awesome! Den Mumbak ordered soto campor for us, and it’s wise not to ask what is in this soto, as I learned later. It consists of practically every part of the cow! Nevertheless, it was extremely delicious, and I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a soto that good!
I mentioned to Den Mumbak that we wanted to go to the Central Market. But Den Mumbak advised us not to go, since there had been a lot of criminal acts at that place. We sent off Den Mumbak to Fort Rotterdam. We were a bit worried, thinking Den Mumbak might ask us to pay him for his ‘services’ and it might be costly. Fortunately, we didn’t have to. On the way back to the hotel, we passed by Jalan Omba Sopu, a long stretch of shops selling gold jewelry and souvenirs. We were delighted (not so much for the gold as for the souvenirs), since it wasn’t that far from our hotel.
After resting for while at the hotel, we decided to go to Panakkukang, the biggest mall in East Indonesia, according to the girl at the front desk. I really didn’t know what to look for at the mall. It was big alright, probably similar to Subang Parade in size, and there were so many people! We browsed through the mall, and I ended up buying some polo t-shirts for me and my sis. I did a survey on the shoes and the so-called latest-fashion clothes but I guess they are just not my taste. I bought 3 oringinal CDs. One thing I like about shopping in Indonesia is the CDs. They are so horrendously cheap!!! I got 3 CDs, Amy Winehouse, Duffy and Katy Perry, for less than 80 RM!! I’d wanted to buy Bunga Cinta Lestari’s CD but changed my mind at the last minute. Maybe the reason I’d wanted to buy is because it cost less than 10 RM and there was this one song that I really liked!!! Lame.
Back at the hotel, we asked the front desk about the best way to go to Samalona. The manager that we spoke to looked exactly like Erra Fazira (minus the make up and the wig, of course). I guess the actress’s ancestors must have come from Indonesia (chuckle). She wasn’t so sure how but promised to get the info for us.
Day 3
Samalona IslandThe hotel front desk however, seemed clueless about Samalona and Ms. Erra Fazira look-alike was nowhere to be seen. Fed up, we took a cab, headed to the jetty opposite Fort Rotterdam and hired a boat for Rp 400, 000, Rp 100 000 cheaper than the rate quoted by Den Mumbak. I was worried that we’d stumble upon Den Mumbak since we sorta gave him hope that we'd hire him, but fortunately he wasn’t around. The boat crew took some time to get the boat ready, and so to kill time, we posed around the jetty. The boat ride took less more or less half an hour, and as soon as we arrived, we ordered for the usual snorkeling gadgets and food. Samalona is just a small island but serene and beautiful. It is surrounded by reefs and what really captured my attention was the colour of the sea, which seemed like layers and layers of blue, turquoise and emerald. There were about 5 or 6 houses on the island and a small surau. I love the white sandy beach and the wooden shacks that lined the seashore. As we were getting ready to jump into the water, a lady came and asked for some payment for staying at her shack. At this point, we got really fed-up with this payment thing. Everywhere we went in Makassar, some kind of payment was demanded. First, there were the kids at the airport. Then, at Fort Rotterdam. Twice. Next, at Port Poetare. And now, at Samalona. The shack where we put our stuff looked run down and dilapidated but since it was the nearest shack to our snorkeling spot, we had no choice. I was disappointed with the whole snorkeling thing. I guess I had set snorkeling at Pulau Payar as the benchmark. At Samalona, areas where we could snorkel were limited, and there were quite a few jet skis criss crossing near the shore. Plus, there was no life-jacket, which I thought was essential for a novice snorkler like me and Mazlin. Aida couldn’t snorkel and so stayed at the shack, catching up on TIME. Yup, that's how serious Aida is with her reading. Hehe. After about an hour, since there was not much we could do, we had lunch. What we had was simple dishes but awesome, nevertheless! I was surprised that though the heat was unbearable, it didn’t feel heaty at all sitting under the shack. There must be some cooling elements in the roof of the shack. Hmm. Makes me wonder about the greatness of old, simple architecture.
After Samalona, we went back to the hotel and went out again. This time, we specifically asked the cab driver to bring us to the souvenir shop at Somba Opu. The driver took us to the right place, for we spent hours in the shop. It has always been my practice to get some traditional fabrics to be made into sarongs whenever I go traveling, so when I saw those nice makassar silk, I didn’t hesitate. I also bought some t-shirts, plus some peanuts or in Makassarese, kacang disko. Little did I know that these peanuts can be very addictive!
Ater shopping, we headed to Pantai Losari. It wasn’t very far from the souvenir shop anyway. While walking, we passed by so many hawker stalls selling pisang epe. Always curious about food, we sat down at one of the stalls and ordered for pisang epe cheese. It was a gamble, but it was worth it! Pisang epe was simply delicious! It is banana that is grilled and topped with gula merah syrup and grated cheese. I can’t even begin to describe how sinful it is. It just is. The stall that we chose is just opposite Pantai Losari. After packing on the calories, we went to the beach. It is similar to the Pantai Lido stretch in JB, I reckon. Well, maybe better and more attractive. There was this building facing the beach that had these big statues of a man and a woman. The male statue is dressed in a traditional fisherman clothing, holding a fish whereas the female statue carries a child and a kettle. I thought the statues were marvelous, and encapsulate Makassar’s ethnology and history very well. They depict the traditional roles of men and women in Makassar. Men – the breadwinner, women – the housewife. There is just something majestic and earnest in the statues despite its basic and traditional depiction. After a short stint with the sunset, we headed back to the hotel. Again, we had dinner at the restaurant next to the hotel.
After Samalona, we went back to the hotel and went out again. This time, we specifically asked the cab driver to bring us to the souvenir shop at Somba Opu. The driver took us to the right place, for we spent hours in the shop. It has always been my practice to get some traditional fabrics to be made into sarongs whenever I go traveling, so when I saw those nice makassar silk, I didn’t hesitate. I also bought some t-shirts, plus some peanuts or in Makassarese, kacang disko. Little did I know that these peanuts can be very addictive!
Ater shopping, we headed to Pantai Losari. It wasn’t very far from the souvenir shop anyway. While walking, we passed by so many hawker stalls selling pisang epe. Always curious about food, we sat down at one of the stalls and ordered for pisang epe cheese. It was a gamble, but it was worth it! Pisang epe was simply delicious! It is banana that is grilled and topped with gula merah syrup and grated cheese. I can’t even begin to describe how sinful it is. It just is. The stall that we chose is just opposite Pantai Losari. After packing on the calories, we went to the beach. It is similar to the Pantai Lido stretch in JB, I reckon. Well, maybe better and more attractive. There was this building facing the beach that had these big statues of a man and a woman. The male statue is dressed in a traditional fisherman clothing, holding a fish whereas the female statue carries a child and a kettle. I thought the statues were marvelous, and encapsulate Makassar’s ethnology and history very well. They depict the traditional roles of men and women in Makassar. Men – the breadwinner, women – the housewife. There is just something majestic and earnest in the statues despite its basic and traditional depiction. After a short stint with the sunset, we headed back to the hotel. Again, we had dinner at the restaurant next to the hotel.
The afore-mentioned statuesDay 4
This was our last day in Makassar. It was also spa day for us! We went to the spa at the hotel after breakfast and got ourselves pampered. I took the 3-hour package while the girls took the 2-hour ones (Yup, I went overboard a bit but hey, it was my hard-earned money). I wasn’t really happy though since I had set my spa experience in Vietnam as the benchmark. Well, nevertheless, I felt good. It was worth the 100 RM I paid. A 100 RM could only get me a one-hour massage in Malaysia. After the massage, we went to Coto Nusantara (again) to savour the soto Makassar. Yup, it was that good that we simple had to eat it again. And again.
Our next stop was the souvenir shop (again). I had to exchange some of the t-shirts that I’d bought because they were too small for the people I’d bought them for. Oops, this was supposed to be a secret. We thought of having another serving of pisang epe so we headed to Pantai Losari, via Jalan Somba Opu. On impulse, I stopped at one of the jewelry shop to see if they sell silver jewelry. Gold jewelry has never compelled me. I've always wanted a silver anklet, so I got one. It’s cheap compared to the ones sold in Malaysia, I guess. Plus, it’s so hard to find a nice silver anklet to my liking like the one I got in Somba Opu. When we got to Pantai Losari, we tried another pisang epe stall and this time around, it was even more delicious than the ones we had the previous day. I ate to my heart’s content. So did the girls.
Our next stop was the souvenir shop (again). I had to exchange some of the t-shirts that I’d bought because they were too small for the people I’d bought them for. Oops, this was supposed to be a secret. We thought of having another serving of pisang epe so we headed to Pantai Losari, via Jalan Somba Opu. On impulse, I stopped at one of the jewelry shop to see if they sell silver jewelry. Gold jewelry has never compelled me. I've always wanted a silver anklet, so I got one. It’s cheap compared to the ones sold in Malaysia, I guess. Plus, it’s so hard to find a nice silver anklet to my liking like the one I got in Somba Opu. When we got to Pantai Losari, we tried another pisang epe stall and this time around, it was even more delicious than the ones we had the previous day. I ate to my heart’s content. So did the girls.
The yummy pisang epe 
Jalan Somba Opu (as long as Jln TAR in KL; 99% of the shops sell gold.)
Then we went to a mall to get our manicure and pedicure done. This was cheap, but not done hygienically, as I noticed in horror. Three of us were having our manicure and pedicure done and the girls were sharing some of the tools! Well, I guess the mani and pedi were cheap for a reason.
The mani and pedi took so long that we had to rush back to the hotel to get our luggage. We had like 2 hours left before departure! We had a panic attack when we got stuck in the traffic jam but the taxi driver assured us that we’d be at the airport in time to check in. The same taxi driver waited for us to get our luggage from the hotel, and he was kind enough to speed all the way to the airport. He was also very friendly and funny to the boot. We learnt form him that we could actually get the spices for soto Makassar at the local market. We couldn’t believe our ears! But by then, it was already too late!
After checking in, I spent some time going around the airport, admiring the architecture and the big pinisi displayed at the center. The flight was delayed, as usual. We met a guy and his wife whom we’d met on our flight to Malkassar. We shared our experiences, and learnt that there are actually many Malaysian students in Makassar, mostly doing medicine. The guy and his wife actually had the fortune to meet one of them, who brought them sight seeing and eating and all. Well, some people had all the luck.
Sultan Hasanudin Airport
Post Trip
We touched down at around 12 am. Aida’s bro was kind enough to give me a lift. My trip to Makassar was okay, I thought. Makassar is not as congested as Jakarta. Or Bandung. It is more laidback, a fact which I like tremendously. Granted, there wasn’t much to do in Makasaar, but I wouldn’t mind going there again, just to eat. Hehehe. Oh, and spend quality time with friends :-).
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