Trip to Miri
About a year ago, a colleague, Megat, asked me whether I wanted to be part of his research team, which was going to produce a documentary about the bird's nest industry in Malaysia. My part, he described, would be to write the text in English and to go for sales-pitch once the documentary is ready. I agreed immediately, as I had worked with him before. He is easy-going and has helped me on a number of occasions. Plus, I am thrilled with the thought of writing the English text for the documentary, which is a great challenge. I haven't been writing texts/scripts for TV for quite some time. This venture would also serve as a break from the monotony of writing my thesis.
Recently, Megat took me on a trip to Miri, Sarawak. The writing stage for the documentary has not started yet but he wanted me to get a feel of the shooting/filming process, as well as hands-on knowledge of the bird's nest industry. He had already stationed his research team at Sandakan. Now, they're moving to Miri, to the legendary Niah Caves, where the swiftlets fly in and out and make their nests. I was thrilled! I've never been to the Niah Caves and would probably not step foot into it, ever, for lack of company who's interested enough to accompany me! Megat warned me that it wasn't going to be an easy-breezy trip. We're going into the jungle, spend the night in the cave, and it's going to be very cold at night, he said. So no trolley bag, no heels, no skirt. Bring a backpack and wear decent shoes, he reminded me. I totally understand. Megat must think I'm some kind of a spoilt brat who only knows how to be pretty! Hah! Watch me! I always rise up to a challenge!
So the first thing I did was borrow a backpack from a good friend. I have never, ever, travelled with a backpack. I surprised myself for being able to fit in my clothes and toiletry into the backpack. Hehe. I didn't even have to check in the backpack at the airport. One word to describe travelling with a back pack: fuss-free. I was happy! I could even get used to travelling like this. Hehe.
I met Megat and two other research team members at the airport. These two are experts in aerial video filming. I really had no idea what the itinerary was like. When we arrived in Miri, it was already evening. The other research team members had also arrived in Miri from Sandakan and they wasted no time to depart for Niah. Megat checked us in into a hotel, a nice one adjacent to the biggest mall in Miri. We spent the rest of the evening looking for batteries for the shooting gadgets, buying camping stuff and setting up the mini helicopters. The latter was a really time-consuming job, took them hours to set up everything. Click here for a view of Miri at night.
The next day we checked out of the hotel and drove to Lambir National Park. But not before stopping by the craft centre near the hotel. Megat wanted to buy some props. It was then that I learned that Miri is the land of the seahorses. Most of its souvenirs carry this symbolic icon.
The next day we checked out of the hotel and drove to Lambir National Park. But not before stopping by the craft centre near the hotel. Megat wanted to buy some props. It was then that I learned that Miri is the land of the seahorses. Most of its souvenirs carry this symbolic icon.
The team wanted to shoot the Latak waterfall at Lambir National Park. As usual, it took them hours to set up the mini helicopters. It dawned on me then that these people take pride in what they do and are always committed and passionate in their jobs. While waiting for the helis to be ready, we made friends with some Germany tourists. They're a nice bunch of people, travelling to Asia for the first time! The aerial filming started quite late. It took a 20 minute walk following the main trail to get to the waterfall. I was doing fine, enjoying the beauty of nature. Except for when we had to cross the suspension bridge. I braced myself, no choice. Megat had a good laugh. That devil.
One of the many waterfalls at Lambir National Park
I had no idea I would be one of the "characters" in the filming, walking in the jungle, appreciating its beauty. Luckily I was shot only from behind. If not I would have demanded some payment! Haha. We were accompanied into the jungle by Miti, a forest ranger, from whom I learned about illegal logging that is often carried out at night, involving certain parts of the park. The process of catching the culprit is laborious but they have managed to catch some. They are usually punished by hefty fines. Fines imposed on the culprits are measured by the worth of the trees cut down. What happens after that is anyone's guess. Click here for my own (amateurish-handset) video recording of the aerial shooting.
We left the park at around 6. It was almost dark. As I walked through the trail, it dawned on me that what I'm doing for my PhD -relating literature and the environment - becomes more meaningful when I hear true accounts like Miti's. I've always read about how environmental concerns in Sabah and Sarawak have often revolved around illegal logging and the displacement of indigenous people. Today I had the pleasure of relating what I had read to reality.
From the park we headed straight to the airport to pick up two other research team members, who had flown in from KK. We had a big feast at a restaurant to welcome these people. These guys teach robotics at some polytechnic in KK and were very friendly even though I had just met them and was the only woman in the group. We then headed to the Niah National Park camp ground where Megat had already booked some hostel rooms for us. It was not bad. Megat was worried I would find it horrendous. I told Megat I've seen worse. Hehe. Since it was already late at night, our journey to Niah was postponed to the next day. I was too exhausted and fell asleep in no time.
From the park we headed straight to the airport to pick up two other research team members, who had flown in from KK. We had a big feast at a restaurant to welcome these people. These guys teach robotics at some polytechnic in KK and were very friendly even though I had just met them and was the only woman in the group. We then headed to the Niah National Park camp ground where Megat had already booked some hostel rooms for us. It was not bad. Megat was worried I would find it horrendous. I told Megat I've seen worse. Hehe. Since it was already late at night, our journey to Niah was postponed to the next day. I was too exhausted and fell asleep in no time.
We had breakfast before leaving for the caves. It was then that we met some guys who are involved in the bird's nest business. I ordered Mee Kolok, wanted to try it out myself after hearing so much about it. It is Sarawak's delicacy. It was not good. I failed to appreciate it. Maybe other places have better Mee Kolok, I don't know.
I learned from the friendly and jovial bird's nest guys that all the rivers in Sarawak do have crocodiles. They believe that they shouldn't harm the crocodiles for any reason whatsoever for fear that the crocodiles will harm their children. That's why any commercial ventures that involve the crocodiles are done at crocodile farms and never at the rivers. Fantastic, I thought! How traditional belief systems actually work to protect wildlife. Interesting topic for research. Hehe.
Shudder, shudder
When our breakfast session was over, I realized how friendly and gentlemen the Sarawakian people were. Even though I was the only woman in the group, they treated me right and included me in the conversation. Then one of the guys' wife appeared and joined us. She too, was friendly. She taught me how to cook the bird's nest, using lump sugar and what not. The price of the bird's nest however, was quite a bomb. 350 ringgit for 3 small pieces of bird's nest! I couldn't believe my ears! They then told me that there are different grades when it comes to the bird's nests. Those really good quality ones could fetch 1000 ringgit! I also learned that the process of harvesting the bird's nest is a life-threatening one, as they have to climb really steep cave walls to do the harvest. The harvest is done every 45 days.
When our breakfast session was over, I realized how friendly and gentlemen the Sarawakian people were. Even though I was the only woman in the group, they treated me right and included me in the conversation. Then one of the guys' wife appeared and joined us. She too, was friendly. She taught me how to cook the bird's nest, using lump sugar and what not. The price of the bird's nest however, was quite a bomb. 350 ringgit for 3 small pieces of bird's nest! I couldn't believe my ears! They then told me that there are different grades when it comes to the bird's nests. Those really good quality ones could fetch 1000 ringgit! I also learned that the process of harvesting the bird's nest is a life-threatening one, as they have to climb really steep cave walls to do the harvest. The harvest is done every 45 days.
Back at the hostel, as the two KK guys assembled their helis, I learned that the price of their mini helicopter + the camera mounted on it was 25k! *speechless* The one that was used at the Lambir park earlier only cost 5k! But both serve the same purposes, nevertheless. The visuals that we got from the filming done at Lambir were simply divine!
The 25k gadget
After crossing the river (read:crocodiles), we set out to Lubang Perentah. This is one of the caves found at the back of Niah Cave. It is where the bird's nest harvest is done. To get to the foot of the cave, we had to walk in the jungle for about 45 minutes. Phew! The trail was fine, it was a good work out for us! Hehe. Days spent at the gym have paid off for me. Woohoo! But the climb up to Lubang Perentah was a different story. I was dumbfounded by the height of the cave. It is as high as a 5 storey flat block! Looking at the staircase that leads to LB, I could tell that it was going to be a steep climb to the top. Like, really, really, really, steep. The staircase was really a basic one - made from wood, with two bars, connected by rungs. I braced myself. I must admit that I do get afraid of heights but as long as there are people around me, I should be fine. The guys were really sporting and as I was climbing, they kept on saying "Don't look down!" I did exactly what they told me! I heaved a huge sigh of relief when I got to the top! To have come this far, this high. Phew!
Taking a breather quarter-way through the forest
The bird's nest operator had built a hut at the mouth of the cave. It is big like a house, there is a viewing deck, an open kitchen, a bedroom, a bathroom and a toilet. The team quickly unpacked their stuff. The other half of the team were not in sight, shooting at some other parts of the caves. The heli was quickly flown all over to capture the beauty of the cave seen from the sky. One of the local guys who had helped the team to carry some heavy stuff busied himself with preparing lunch. I could see some parts of the cave walls that are the swiftlets' homes. I shudder at the thought of people climbing up the high and slippery walls just to harvest the birds' nests. So risky and life-threatening. Click here for a glimpse of the aerial shooting at Lubang Perentah.
Lubang Perentah
View from the hut at Lubang Perentah (can't see the ground)
I marvelled at the greenery surrounding me. The wonderful silence. The quiet and calm. Oh, the wonder of nature! I could live here like, forever. A flash of emotion swept over me. Raw. White. Like a sudden intense burst of energy in the heart that awakened some really dormant feelings. I cursed Megat for sending me home too early. I should leave the next day, with the rest of the crew. I think Megat underestimated my adaptability skills. Hehe. It's not like I've never experienced this kind of hard life. When I was a kid, I used to spend my school holidays at my maternal grandparents' kampong home. Life was hard back then. No electricity. No piped water. No toilet in the house. A good bath is like 500 metres away from the house, at a well dug up by my granddad himself, tucked in the middle of the jungle. I enjoyed those days that I spent at my grandparents' kampong home, despite the lack of modern facilities. It would be forever etched in my mind. Those days were real kampong days, in every sense of the word. I doubt kids nowadays get to experience what I had experienced. So the point is, if I could adapt to the hard life when I was a kid, I could also adapt to it when I am an adult.
The bird's nest operator had built a hut at the mouth of the cave. It is big like a house, there is a viewing deck, an open kitchen, a bedroom, a bathroom and a toilet. The team quickly unpacked their stuff. The other half of the team were not in sight, shooting at some other parts of the caves. The heli was quickly flown all over to capture the beauty of the cave seen from the sky. One of the local guys who had helped the team to carry some heavy stuff busied himself with preparing lunch. I could see some parts of the cave walls that are the swiftlets' homes. I shudder at the thought of people climbing up the high and slippery walls just to harvest the birds' nests. So risky and life-threatening. Click here for a glimpse of the aerial shooting at Lubang Perentah.
I marvelled at the greenery surrounding me. The wonderful silence. The quiet and calm. Oh, the wonder of nature! I could live here like, forever. A flash of emotion swept over me. Raw. White. Like a sudden intense burst of energy in the heart that awakened some really dormant feelings. I cursed Megat for sending me home too early. I should leave the next day, with the rest of the crew. I think Megat underestimated my adaptability skills. Hehe. It's not like I've never experienced this kind of hard life. When I was a kid, I used to spend my school holidays at my maternal grandparents' kampong home. Life was hard back then. No electricity. No piped water. No toilet in the house. A good bath is like 500 metres away from the house, at a well dug up by my granddad himself, tucked in the middle of the jungle. I enjoyed those days that I spent at my grandparents' kampong home, despite the lack of modern facilities. It would be forever etched in my mind. Those days were real kampong days, in every sense of the word. I doubt kids nowadays get to experience what I had experienced. So the point is, if I could adapt to the hard life when I was a kid, I could also adapt to it when I am an adult.
When I climbed down from the cave a few hours later, I felt like my heart has been de-cluttered. I felt rejuvenated. More motivated. More positive. More loving than ever. I made a mental note to get in touch with the person whom I've been carrying in my heart for the past few years. It's been a while since we said hello to each other. Another mental note: I am determined to come back again as I didn't get to venture into the main caves! Bummer. So long, Miri! I love your forests, caves, and rivers. And I love your humble, friendly people!
Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better ~ Albert Einstein
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